The show highlighted police brutality, referencing the Black Lives Matter movement through videos, street art, and fashion. The Pyer Moss x Richard Philips Spring 2020 collection is a seamless partnership. Is Pyer Moss luxury? There is no Pyer Moss boutique. There is no change in our relationship with Kerby, Pyer Moss, and Your Friends in New York., In December 2021, Jean-Raymond laid off most of his team; several employees said they were let go with no severance. Click through the gallery to see photos of the Pyer Moss spring '20 collection on the runway at New York Fashion Week on Sept. 8. The talent and ideas at Pyer Moss deserve a wider audience. Including some early deals from Amazon Pet Day, Brooklinen bedding at the cheapest weve ever seen it, and jeans you can dance in. She just came to enjoy the show. Calmese does extensive research before each medley is createdthis season, he delved into rocknrolls roots in rural southern quartet singingbut hes not just focused on sound when compiling the composition with Jean-Raymond. Lena Waithe wore a custom Pyer Moss suit to the Met Gala in May 2019. He claimed he was going to Dubai to find investors and told the employees the company would love to work with us in the future and that they would hear from them at the start of the year. The former employees never heard back. He refused to follow the typical show schedule, which meant there were no specific seasons associated with his collections and no consistency around when to expect new clothes from the brand. For you to take a stand as a quote-unquote black person would kind of eliminate you. The line was made in Italy; Francesca Bellettini, chief executive of the Kering-brand Saint Laurent, whom Jean-Raymond told the Times he considered his fairy godmother, made the connection. . When Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss debuted his Spring 2020 show last month at the Kings Theatre in Brooklyn, New York, the fashion community was in complete awe of his vision and dedication. Then, right before we did the show, right outside my apartment in Southside Jamaica, Queens, I had a cast on my hand, was talking to my sister on the phone, was coming in from buying a beef patty, and I look up and I hear, Put it down, put it down! And these cops had their guns drawn on me. Known as Reebok Studies, the new division he will oversee will act as an incubator for young talent, and it affords him the power to raise up a new generation of designers. This is its story and the first time the video has been shared since that time. For Jean-Raymond, who had started Pyer Moss in 2013, it had been a risk he felt compelled to take. He told me the next day, when we were walking around SoHo. He then did freelance design for Marc Jacobs, Theory, Kenneth Cole, and Badgley Mischka. There was a decision to include YouTube clips of police brutality, to project light on what was happening all around this country. This is nothing to laugh at. I think we shot the whole thing for $1,500. So much of ones existence in the fashion space was trying not to ruffle too many feathers. But if youre like, I dont think you should do this, then it was like, I hate you, you dont believe in my business, you dont believe in what were doing, you dont trust me., In May 2021, Jean-Raymond let one of his executives and best friends, who had no background in design, take over a collection that a designer was working on. The sewers were still finishing items the night before. I was reacting in the moment. And we wanted to make it clear that we wanted to be at the forefront of a conversation in fashion, within the industry, where this was just not talked about ever. A couple would not come to the show. When the samples came back, nothing fit right (You couldnt even get it over your head, said a former employee.) Also, in 2014, he was a finalist in the DHL Exported Prize presented by IMG Worldwide. Jean-Raymond denied this, saying that he was the only designer on the collection and that we sometimes receive samples that dont have the correct fit, but this is true across the industry and is just part of the process of making things.. I wanted to invite the families of the victims. Brittney Escovedo, an early employee and founder of Beyond 8,* the production company for all of Jean-Raymonds shows, said that at first, the designers focus was on making Pyer Moss a serious fashion brand. It shocked the fashion world, which is better known for producing, and selling, superficial fantasies of perfection and privilege than for engaging in political commentary. I think there were three to five models I painted. At the Pyer Moss spring/summer 2016 catwalk show, he aired a documentary on racially motivated police brutality in the US and later created a t-shirt called 'They Have Names,' which listed victims such as Walter Scott, who was shot in Charleston in 2015 after being pulled over for having a brake light that wasnt working, and Eric Garner, who died after being held in a choke hold during arrest in New York in 2014. For the show, it was important to emphasize the control we had over the narrative through this signifier of Pyer Moss News, to represent taking control of the narrative and speaking to truth. Terms of Service apply. As a kid I never thought that I could get into fashion if I didnt learn to rap first. These days he doesnt second-guess himself, nor should he. Jean-Raymond was making a point: As he told the Times, You know what we wrote on the mood board in the design studio as our takeaway for this collection? Brittney Escovedo, show producer, Beyond 8. To revisit this article, select My Account, thenView saved stories. Titled WAT U IZ, and put on in the U.S. during Paris Couture Week, it was a tribute to the various innovations that Black people have been responsible for, often without credit. So when designer Kerby Jean-Raymond decided to go on hiatus last season, shortly after winning the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award, many wondered if he could keep the momentum going. Kerby and his team handled the principal photography for the project they had shot the footage of the interviews. Usually, that would mean in Paris, during Couture Week, but instead he chose to do it 3,500 miles away at Villa Lewaro, originally the home of beauty mogul Madam C.J. Adults who love Disney hear a siren song returning them to a time they fully lived inside a secondary world. Theres no shopping function on its website, the last Reebok collection dropped last fall, and the brand is no longer working with its PR company of over five years, the Hinton Group, which had so carefully helped Jean-Raymond build the sort of heroic press most small designers could only dream of. We had talked to the New Museum about potentially having it there, and once we shared what the show was about, they just declined and said we couldnt have the event there. Three years after his Black Lives Matter show, American, Also celebrated Black leisure. It was so central and core to Black culture and who we are. More and more, it seemed that Jean-Raymond, the amazing showman with big ideas, had only limited interest in doing what it took to make and sell clothes. We make sure that the message of the song is right as well, and that it resonates with the brand ethos. Starting off as a casting director at Pyer Moss, it wasnt until Calmese played Jean-Raymond a video of him singing that he realized he had a deep theater history in ballet, opera, and more. We wrote, Black people like muffins and Seinfeld too.. Jean-Raymond's mentor was Laurent Claquin, head of Kering Americas, the luxury-retail conglomerate behind brands like Balenciaga and Gucci. Pyer Moss, spring 2020 Dolly Faibyshev for The New York Times So, for example, this collection, titled "Sister," began with the history of Sister Rosetta Tharpe, a "queer black woman in the. All rights reserved. It was at that moment that the band and so-called Pyer Moss Tabernacle Drip Choir Drench in the Blood took center stage. A powerful show brought Black Lives Matter to the runway at New York Fashion Week, "Erykah Badu on art, activism and her NYFW debut", "Pyer Moss Isn't a Fashion Brand It's a Life Raft", "17 Celebrities Wearing Pyer Moss Prove This Brand Is For Everybody", "Reebok Taps Kerby Jean-Raymond Of Pyer Moss As Global Creative Director", "Pyer Moss Founder Kerby Jean-Raymond Departs Reebok", "The Designer Changing How We Think About Fashion and Race in America", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Kerby_Jean-Raymond&oldid=1150425110, Short description is different from Wikidata, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License 3.0, This page was last edited on 18 April 2023, at 02:56. Theres very little video footage from that show because people were off their phones. When the news came out, thanks to an interview he did with the Washington Posts senior critic-at-large Robin Givhan, that Jean-Raymond was making the film a part of his show, his first venue canceled. We wanted to juxtapose this story with the modern-day prison system and police brutality, to show we shouldnt be repeating these mistakes. That Mr. Gurung chose to answer it by settling on a hodgepodge of stereotypical fashion tropes white cotton, denim, seersucker, red, white and blue, power suiting, benefit circuit dresses and then reinterpreting them his own way, adding flounces to the denim, hippie tie-dye to the flag-waving, and peacenik pastel florals to the suiting, frittered away some of the point. By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice and to receive email correspondence from us. *This story has been updated to clarify that Brittney Escovedo is the sole founder of Beyond 8. . For a lot of black designers and designers of color, theres this added pressure, says Givhan. If others have their own version of it, Im not mad about itas long as theyre keeping the integrity of the smiles.. The name is a combination of Jean-Raymond's mothers American and Haitian last names. 2020. I knew I wouldnt be able to sleep at night if I didnt address these issues. He also insisted on running both the creative and business sides there was no Robert Duffy to his Marc Jacobs, no Giancarlo Giammetti to his Valentino. But many people wanted more from him than an interesting art project. Work boots scrawled with the names of victims of police violence. His label Pyer Moss was also awarded the top prize at the fifteenth CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund awards that same month. At the end of the day, Jean-Raymond does what he wants to do; hes the one who has the final say., It did pour on the day of the show, but people still showed up to support Jean-Raymond and wait out the storm, and eventually the event turned into an impromptu party. One film, titled Production and Persuasion, featured Tracee Ellis Ross on the phone yelling at factories to produce clothing for the brand, asking them how they were treating their workers, and bribing them with cheesecakes. His mother died in a house fire during a trip to Haiti when he was 7, and he spoke often about how badly he was treated by his stepmother, who gave her own son Christmas gifts while he got nothing. Kerby Jean-Raymond reflects on 2019 NYFW show. Hearst UK is the trading name of the National Magazine Company Ltd, 30 Panton Street, Leicester Square, London, SW1Y 4AJ. 11 July 2021 Fashion Week What Happened to Fashion Week in Four Charts According to several people with firsthand knowledge, cheesecakes wouldnt have helped much. We started shooting a guerilla-style documentary that featured Usher, people in the fashion industry and the family members of victims of police brutality. He was throwing these things against the wall, and they werent sticking in a real way, so when it came to the Black Lives Matter show, I think he was fed up. The casting job continued all the way up until the show because one model was stuck in fittings for, I believe, Alexander Wang, and I actually had to pull a blogger from the audience and put her in the show. [8] In March 2022, he departed Reebok. This article was featured in One Great Story, New Yorks reading recommendation newsletter. [2] The featured collection was titled "Double Bind. He didnt like for employees to set out-of-office messages on their email accounts when they were out of the office. For his CFDA/Vogue Fund competition show, fashion editors were forced to come to Brooklyn in the rain, no less. The audience is out there. And once he did, and got through, that set the tone for him understanding the importance and significance of being a black man in America, a black designer, and solidified his voice and all of our purpose. What made Pyer Moss stand out was in part Jean-Raymonds tenacity in doing things his own way. It was so Black. Pyer Moss Is Bringing It Back. Kerby Jean-Raymond first came into the spotlight for his presentation of Pyer Moss' Spring 2016 Menswear Collection during New York Fashion Week. Pyer Moss was known for shows, but people are going to get their basics from somewhere, so they should have the option to get them from us.. In February 2018, it was the cowboy; last September, it was family time and the backyard barbecue; and this season, it was rock n roll. They lack the scale of production of larger brands, and for the entirety of Pyer Mosss existence, the old department-store and boutique systems that once supported upstart companies were in crisis. Jean-Raymond is the 33-year-old founder of Pyer Mos s, a men's and women's label based in New York City. Youre not just doing it for you, youre doing it for the community. Brent Faiyaz opened the show accompanied by a 90-person choir; Stranger Things actor Caleb McLaughlin walked the runway; and celebrities including Normani, Tracee Ellis Ross, and Quavo showed up. Born in Brooklyn, Jean-Raymond attended The High School of Fashion Industries in Manhattan. Pairing Richard's divine paintings with the grandeur and grit of Pyer Moss birthed a story with many nuances. You\'ll receive the next newsletter in your inbox. Backstage afterward, Mr. Jean-Raymond, who is 32, rejected the characterization of himself as a leader and insisted Im not the race guy.. This season with the choir, we were focused on black women who I feel are part of the lineage of Sister Rosetta Tharpe, whether that be Lil Kim, Cardi B, Anita Baker, Patti LaBelle, or Whitney Houston. The spring-summer 2016 collection made him a star. He was eager and ambitious from the start. Tharpes idiosyncratic mix of gospel, jazz, and blues proved controversial to some traditional gospel factions of her time, and Jean-Raymond takes a similar approach with his choir. The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Vogue.com. They wanted him to run a business. In February 2016, his fall collection put a spotlight on Black mental health with buttons attached to jackets and commander caps that referenced self-medication through drug use: ACID, BOOZE, LSD, MOLLY. Wed go over his house and hed say, Im gonna introduce you to Beyonc, said one former employee. It was about forcing a deeper reckoning at a time when race has become a dividing line in the country, and embracing a different understanding in order to move forward. . It'll also be accompanied by a limited release of apparel styles from Pyer Moss . On September 10, 2015, Kerby Jean-Raymond, the designer of the then-little-known two-year-old brand Pyer Moss, opened his runway show at the Altman Building on 18th Street with a 12-minute film titled This Is an Intervention. As the first model bounded down the runway to the sound of Anita Bakers Sweet Love, sporting rhinestone-studded wide-leg pants, a bolero jacket, and a halolike Afro, the staid rocker archetypeskinny, white, malewas instantly turned on its head. Pyer Moss Retail Apparel and Fashion New York, New York 3,903 followers Pyer Moss was founded in 2013 by Kerby Jean-Raymond, based out of New York City. I told Dario not to send the models out. Jean-Raymond knew he wanted to be a fashion designer early on, after falling in love with Dennis Rodmans Nike Air Worms. It took place at Kings Theatre in East Flatbush in front of an audience of 3,000. The second installment in American, Also, a three-part series of collections addressing the erasure of African American narratives in popular culture, the moving show was hailed as one of the best of the season and positioned the brand squarely in the New York spotlight. To these critiques, Jean-Raymond is defiant. The artist Derrick Adams, whose work is suffused with everyday Black joy, collaborated on the pieces. They lengthen, lift, and thicken lashes for just a few dollars. It was important for me as a Black man to usher in Black creatives, said Damion Presson, the global-entertainment-marketing director at Reebok at the time. The Fashion Fund was set up 2003 with the intention of giving emerging American design talent the opportunity for further success in the business of fashion. The brand pulled strings even though Pyer Moss had never done couture nor did its business seem ready to support a couture line, but the gamble made sense: The status that comes with being the first Black American designer at Couture Week would make history. There were obvious nods to Tharpes musicianship; the shape of her guitar was threaded through the curvy lapels of satin overcoats, and the most literal reference was a novelty guitar-shaped handbag. At a time when cancel culture and the act of calling out brands were emerging as influential forces, even white people understood that his critique of the exclusionary fashion world was valid. It has been a year since Pyer Moss invited Fashion Week to Weeksville, the historic black neighborhood in Brooklyn. I knew I wanted a video, knew I wanted an experiential element. Four hundred years have passed since they brought our people to this land . Covering him was an opportunity for the fashion press to feel relevant. He is outside the system and also of it. Despite the backlash for his display, Jean-Raymond uses his platform to promote positive social change. There were hours and hours of footage of various public figures. Ninety minutes before last night's Pyer Moss show at the historic Kings Theatre in Flatbush, Brooklyn, the line swept down the block, and at ten, well after the scheduled start . As Joseph Ferrara said: Where is the product that were associating with this awesome story? For those who joined the company believing, as one put it, hes like this god, and you go there thinking were going to change lives, the work became increasingly frustrating. Invited to sit in the front row were Oscar Grants mother, Sean Bells fiance, and Eric Garners daughter, while some fashion people had been told to literally take a back seat in the second or third row. It wasnt hard for me to reach out to the families because I felt like it was important, but it was hard for them to trust us and to understand what our motives were. After the video, there was 2 to 3 seconds of complete silence before people started to applaud. I told Dario in 2015 that I wanted to put together a trap opera, where we mix trap, opera, soul, R&B, and rap, all in a choir format, and we found 16 people. I had painted all the boots beforehand: a lot of repetition of I cant breathe, which was Eric Garner. He wore a T-shirt that read IF YOU ARE JUST LEARNING ABOUT PYER MOSS, WE FORGIVE YOU during a meeting with Wintour in which he showed her his collection. We are a ten-year-old fashion brand that regularly sells from the runway clothing and other items, including bags, sneakers and footwear. Earlier last week, WSJ featured Kerby Jean-Raymond as a "disruptive" designer due to the fact he doesn't stick to the typical fashion week schedule, putting on one show a year. Kerby Jean-Raymond Teams With Kering to Launch Your Friends in New York. Jean-Raymond was blowing through his money. And I wanted to be a sneaker designer because that . At 13, he got his first after-school job at a sneaker store in Flatbush called Ragga Muffin. The last straw for many of his early supporters was his couture show in July 2021. NYFW 2020: Sister, Pyer Moss' latest production for New York Fashion Week, was a brilliant, irreverent and joyous celebration of black culture, specifically black women a show where even the . No, I am not talking about the Apollo Theater in Harlem, where Tommy Hilfiger and Zendaya showed their latest see-now-buy-now collaboration in front of a faux Harlem street of brownstones at the service of a live stream. The designer Kerby Jean-Raymond, left, and the artist Gregory Siff backstage.
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