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Its all so good, Hesson says to me as we stop for a moment above the beach at 38th Avenue. Richard Frosty Hesson has been surfing the northern California waters since 1963 and was among the elite group of surfers who first began riding the colossal waves at Mavericks in the 1980s. Did Gerard Butler do his own surfing in Chasing Mavericks? Jay Moriarity XXI. Kim and Jay had been together since Jay was being mentored by Frosty, and stuck with him, showing support until the end. Butler was taught to surf by Hesson himself while earning the respect of his professional surfing costars, including current Big Wave World Tour Champion Greg Long, who acted alongside Butler in the film. The wave typically breaks in winter months on a big west-northwest swell driven by storms over the Pacific Ocean. In real life, the rescue never happened. The footage shows him paddling on his board about to catch a wave, before he wiped out. Actor Jonny Weston, in his first major role, says he surfed before making the film. He is smiling, always smilinga modern day version of Budai. It also boasts miles of beach break and parties up and down the beach with more than 500 fire pits for post-surfing barbecues and festivities. Surfing Mavericks, he only crushed a couple of vertebrae and broke a few ribs, he added. influencers in the know since 1933. Frosty Hesson's second wife, Brenda, who was the mother of two of his three children, passed away of a . Richard "Frosty" Hesson has been surfing the northern California waters since 1963 and was among the elite group of surfers who first began riding the colossal waves at Mavericks in the 1980s. RELEASE DATE: Feb. 23, 1955. Richard Frosty Hesson has been surfing in the waters of northern California since 1963, and was among the elite groups of surfers who began riding the colossal waves of the Mavericks in the 1980s. The day that surfer Jay Moriarity died in the Indian Ocean, his friend and mentor Richard "Frosty" Hesson was on a bike ride with a friend. He did things so that he could get better . He didn't return for a very long time and so people panicked and went searching, his body was found later that day in the Indian ocean. Years after Frosty's first wife, Zeuf and Frosty were married. Once again, it was a good reminder. Pleasure Point surfing icon Richard 'Frosty' Hesson opens up about being the subject of the soon-to-be-released film, 'Chasing Mavericks,' his new book and the importance of enjoying life's simple pleasuresand enduring its toughest challenges. What is Greenpeace Philippines organization? He starred as real-life surfer Jay Moriarity in the 2012 film Chasing Mavericks and as brainy high school student David Raskin in the 2015 time-travel adventure Project Almanac. Shortly after his birth, Jay and his parents moved to Santa Cruz, California, but little did they know about how much of an effect it would have on the future of Jays life. Jonny Weston (born June 16, 1988) is an American actor. The Jay Moriarity Foundation (JMF) is a non-profit organization based on the principles of love and kindness that Jay was known for. Moriarity began surfing Mavericks at 15 after intensive physical and mental training with his master and close friend and Mavericks regular Frosty Hesson. I had a non-acting role as well. Description. I was there to prep, advise and support [Jay], but not make the choices, says Hesson. Thats my good buddy, hes just a helpful guy with a big heart, Pearson chuckles. It was a tough two-year training program designed by Rick. Jay gets closer to Kim as he trains, partially encouraged by Frostys wife, Brenda (Abigail Spencer). Jay first met Frosty in 1990 when he was twelve and approached him at his van at Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz to ask Frosty to teach him about surfing. . For success, no matter what sport you're doing, start with something familiar. Average Age & Life Expectancy Brenda Hesson lived 31 years shorter than the average Hesson family member when she died at the age of 40. But the deep end, it was darker, it was biggerit was there.. On December 23, 1994, big wave surfer Mark Foo died in California while surfing in the Mavericks. He was always helping people, taking care of people, Pearson recalls. This is a carousel. Jaws / Peahi | Maui, Hawaii is probably the fastest, heaviest, and largest wave in the Pacific Ocean. Its about living each day to the fullest, to your own capacity, and to leave the world a better place. Legendary surfer Richard Frosty Hesson heads back in after catching waves at Pleasure Point on Monday, 10/29, 2018 in Santa Cruz, California. He was also a swimmer, paddler, diver, and fisherman. Back at Hessons homea delightful Pleasure Point bungalow that he shares with ZeufI notice a series of painted rocks with single words on themKindness, Dream, Longevityall words to live by. How old is Jonny Weston from Chasing Mavericks? Large statured and emblazoned with platinum-white hair, surfing icon Richard Frosty Hesson is often found standing near his home at the end of 36th Avenue in Santa Cruz, watching the swell come in, as he has for decades. No. He has trained hundreds of young people in the art of surfing. Damn it, hes just a good guy.. By the time shooting began on Chasing Mavericks last fall (both here and in San Mateo County), the hype around Frosty and Jay had blown off the charts. Age didnt exist., Pearson says that he and Hesson can sit down in his factory and discuss surfboard design for hours. I go where the surf is good and there arent a lot of people.. "I'm so grateful that he and his kids got into my life," Zeuf says. That day was a catalyst for turning a devastating and unimaginable tragedy into a positive movement. Zeuf Hesson has lost her battle against cancer, after fighting the disease for 20 years. A few weeks before the biggest wave of the season hit the Mavericks, Brenda has a stroke and dies. Early on in the book, Hesson recounts a childhood experience of visiting the famed Sutro Baths in San Francisco. Rick "Frosty" Hesson After meeting his mentor Rick "Frosty" Hesson, Jay Moriarity embarked on a physical, mental and spiritual journey of training that would prepare him for the ultimate surfing challenge. Pearson, who would later play A-grade water polo in Australia, recalls that Hesson was a phenomenal goalie, the best Ive ever seen. Hesson, he says, completely handled the cage, he owned it, but, more importantly, he kept narrating the game in that deep voice of his. Jay Moriarity was a surfer and adventurer born on 16 June 1978 in Augusta, GA. Required fields are marked *. Hes a stand-up, honorable guy, says Barbour. Its not nearly as raw and wild as what we have here (in Northern California), but its a very special, magical wave., Malibu Lagoon State Beach (Surfrider Beach), Los Angeles County. He quickly established himself as a respected regular in the line-up. Jay dropped into a deep, dark, behemoth of a tube, showing why he was and remains at legend status. Nonetheless, he understands Santa Cruzs reputation as a place where locals dominate the breaks and keep amateurs and outsiders in check. Gday, my name is Rach Taylor and Im the proud Founder of Surf Hungry. Smiling, he says simply. By chance, Hesson briefly found his way into a small coastal village and checked his email. . Legendary surfer Richard Frosty Hesson heads out to catch some waves at Pleasure Point on Monday, 10/29, 2018 in Santa Cruz, California. As workouts go, it wasn"t a major one for Hesson, a. & Moriarity was just a skinny, 12-year-old kid with sparkling blue eyes when he first met Hessonhe hadnt yet reached adolescencebut by the time he was in his early teens he was seeking the guy in The Point everyone knew as Frosty to help him achieve his dream of becoming a big-wave rider up the coast at Mavericks. It is half a mile from Pillar Point in Half Moon Bay, 25 miles south of San Francisco. Californias most important surfing spots, from Frosty Hesson. Frosty is the love of my life." How big was the Chasing Mavericks wave? How do I create a student interest survey? Frosty is the love of my life.. I never questioned his decision. Hesson has clearly come to terms with his young friends deatheven if the emotions remain close to the surface. It's a glorious weekday afternoon in late September and an Indian-summer sun blankets the neighborhoods of Pleasure Point with a soft, [] Cowell Beach, in the heart of Santa Cruz, with the boardwalk and Giant Dipper roller coaster within sight, is still too gentle for his tastes, but its where he directs a lot of people just getting their feet wet. The place responds to the rhythm of the tides. Mavericks is big, cold, out-of-control and challenging, Hesson says. Jay was not only loved for his confidence and skill in the water but was said to always be happy, stoked, and considerate to everyone around him. One meets in passing a vast roster of famous figures of the international and artistic set. Who plays Frostys wife in Chasing Mavericks? I heard your role in particular was based on Jeff Clark. RIncon is known as the Queen of the Coast with a beach and ocean floor littered with round stones smoothed out over the ages by the ocean. A San Francisco culture podcast, hosted by Peter Hartlaub. Natalie Andrewson Peahi means beckon in the Hawaiian language and the Hawaiian name is the name of this surf break, but it is better known as Jaws and was given that name because of the size and hardness of the waves. After Jays passing I just did not find the joy at Mavs I once had. Jay drowned after free diving alone as part of his routine training schedule in deep water. According to Jeff Clark (a big wave surfing pioneer), Jays last wave was one of his best. That day was a catalyst for turning a devastating and unimaginable tragedy into a positive movement. Photo: Noyle / SURFER Located on the northern shore of Oahu, Pipeline is the deadliest wave in the world. There is a pause. For these food pros, one passion feeds into another. Hesson had instilled in his young student the idea of dialing himself into his board, of knowing what worked for him and not anyone else., He emphasizes that both hisand Hessonsrelationship with Moriarity was that of a friendship, as opposed to a teacher and student. Sign up here. Theres another scene where we had Jonny Weston, who plays Jay, in the lineup off to the side and there were a bunch of waves breaking. illustrated by Everything that matters in surf + outdoorsdirectly to you inbox. A search team recovered his body on Friday night. "Lake and Roque have taken me as their parent, and I have taken them as my children. I had no phone number for him, only an email address, and, as it turned out, he was off-the-grid in Mexico, on a surfing expedition. What happened to Frostys wife in Chasing Mavericks? Richard "Frosty" Hesson has been surfing the waters of Northern California since 1963 and was among the elite group of surfers who first began riding the colossal waves of the Mavericks in the 1980s. The scene shifts from Hollywood to the home she loved the best in Versailles. Political chaos has erupted in this Peninsula city over one issue: Housing. Drive, taking it all in, enjoying the conversation, feeling the warmth. Monday October 1, 2012. A search party recovered his body late Friday night. Brenda Hesson passed away at age 40 years old in July 1987. He has trained hundreds of young people in the art of surfing. During his short life of only 22 years, Jay made a name for himself as the youngest person to surf Mavericks at the time, and a spirit that everyone in the community welcomed with open arms. Pearson, who describes Hesson as a hard charger, says that even at a young age Hesson was thoughtful, aware, respectful and reflective., Pearson jokes that often when they were out surfing together, he would look over and see Hesson helping someone in the water. Ludwig Bemelmans. Jay grew up to become an iconic big wave surfer known for his fluent style, friendly character, positive attitude, and stoke. He starred as real-life surfer Jay Moriarity in the 2012 film Chasing Mavericks and as brainy high school student David Raskin in the 2015 time-travel adventure Project Almanac. So how did you first get involved with the Chasing Mavericks movie and what is your role in the film? And always one feels Bemelmans, slightly offstage, observing, recording, commenting, illustrated. And through it all, he has maintained his balance and his sense of humor. Jay was preparing to become a firefighter and had recently finished his EMT Entrance Examination at Cabrillo College when everything changed. He has also appeared in Sugar, John Dies at the End, About Cherry, Caroline and Jackie,. I was raised a Southern Baptist. ; Gerard Butler came close to losing his life while filming Chasing Mavericks. Since surfing the Hawaii Pipeline in the 1960s, it has been known as one of the most dangerous waves in the world. Live like Jay is a reminder to appreciate all the wonders of the world, charge life like Jay charged Mavericks, and that it is through connections with others and our surroundings that we truly shine. "I am so grateful that he and his children came into my life," says Zeuf. A short time later, another email concluded with the same parting affirmation. Hesson concluded his initial missive to me with the simple valediction: Enjoy.. While he didnt divulge his personal favorites, he gave a list of his top-six most important breaks in the history of California surfing. The boundaries between dream and reality fade, just as Godfather Drosselmeier, the Nutcracker's creator, is seen as alternately sinister and jolly. He assigned him to write more than 50 short essays on various aspects of surfing and life, followed by revisions, and concluding with lengthy Aristotelian discussions with Hesson in the front seat of his van. Jay drowned after diving into deep water only as part of his regular training program. RMPCD6KA - Frosty Hesson at the Chasing Mavericks Premiere at the Grove Theatre In Los Angeles.Frosty Hesson ----- Red Carpet Event, Vertical, USA, Film Industry, Celebrities, Photography, Bestof, Arts Culture and Entertainment, Topix Celebrities fashion / Vertical, Best of, Event in Hollywood Life - California, Red Carpet and backstage, USA, Film Industry, Celebrities, movie celebrities, TV . Also known as the Hawaiian peahi, the place to surf can create waves with a face height of more than a hundred feet, while ocean waves pass over a very deep coral reef on the shore. Copyright Weeklys All rights reserved. He was recognized as a flexible surfer who enjoyed all elements of surfing and was not restricted to a shortboard or a longboard. Moriarity was in Lohifushi for an ONeill photo shoot, went free-diving alone and was not seen after. He was about trying to make sure that everyone came away from their experience with a good time. In the 1990s, she was responsible for taking many women to the sport. Have they ever found Jay Moriarity? Chasing Mavericks is a feature film starring Gerard Butler and Jonny Weston about the life of surfer Jay Moriarity that premieres later this month, on October 26th. Rincon is iconic Southern California style, Hesson says. How did Frosty's wife die? All Rights Reserved. Jay gets closer to Kim as he trains, partially encouraged by Frostys wife, Brenda (Abigail Spencer). Ludwig Bemelmans That is true. Third point is the steepest wave, where the shortboarders hang out, Hesson says. Hesson hasnt paddled out in a few years; now that hes pushing 70, its hard to maintain the physical condition needed to handle the beating, he says. Frosty is the love of my life." What famous surfer died at Mavericks? Insightful. And the two most significant relationships in Moriaritys life were those with Hesson and with his girlfriend-turned-wife, Kim, played by Leven Rambin in the film. Mark Sheldon Foo When he was 16, his wipeout at Mavericks was caught on film and featured on the cover of Surfer magazine. The book chronicles Hessons lifes journeyhis competitive swimming and water polo career, a broken first marriage and early fatherhood, his work in the construction trades, the tragic death of his second wife Brenda, the trials of raising his children as a single father and then falling in love with his present wife, Robin Zeuf Janiszeufski-Hesson, an accomplished surfer, nurse and well-known cancer warrior in her own right. illustrated by Based on a real-life Chinese monkBudaiwho wandered the world in poverty (but with a good and loving character), the Laughing Buddha is a symbol of happiness and the wisdom of contentment in Asian cultures. Frosty Hesson adapted by In the decade since his death, Kim has struggled to manage his grief and Jays legacy. Born on June 16, 1978, in Augusta, Georgia, James Michael Moriarity became the first son of Doug and Christy. The Chronicle has launched a new weekly Travel newsletter! (With Darrick Doerner and Buzzy Kerbox). But Domhoff had nothing but good things to say about Frosty and Kim and indicated that their presence on the set helped to keep everyone focused and grounded and that they reminded everyone that there was something larger at stake here than in your typical Hollywood movie.. But just as a film like Field of Dreams is not, ultimately, about baseball, Chasing Mavericks is about something much deeper in the human condition, about pursuing ones dreams and reaching deep inside oneself. Courtesy Of The Epsilon Mega Swell. That day was a catalyst for a destructive and unimaginable tragedy to turn into a positive movement. He was among a handful of tight-lipped locals who surfed Mavericks in the 1980s and early 1990s before it became one of the most famous waves in the world. ADVERTISING AdvertiseAd Planner/Issue ScheduleElectronic Ad GuidelinesSubmit an ObituaryWriting an Obituary, COMPANY INFO Job Opportunities Privacy Policy Terms of Service. He has mentored dozens of young surfers over the years and now gives talks to kids at schools and community centers. All of this has been beyond surreal, he wrote in one of his first emails to me. Its the best feeling ever.. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Your email address will not be published. Another close friend and colleague, Joel Domhoff, was serving as Promotional Extras Coordinator on the set, and although he had invited me to some shoots, I had kept my distance. Gerard Butler made national news in the process of filming this for taking a pretty serious beating at Mavericks. He wasand isa great guy to surf with.. We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. Ge. A search team recovered his body on Friday night. What size tire is on a 2011 Toyota Corolla. Smiling. if(typeof ez_ad_units!='undefined'){ez_ad_units.push([[336,280],'biographyhost_com-box-4','ezslot_1',146,'0','0'])};__ez_fad_position('div-gpt-ad-biographyhost_com-box-4-0'); Moriarity met his wifeKim Moriaritywhen she was 17, whereas he was only 15 years old. A simpler time. Hesson defended the four pillars of a strong human foundation: physical, mental, emotional, and spiritual. Frosty made it his biggest priority to ensure that Jay had all the possible training before facing the challenge that is Mavericks. "Lake & Roque took me as their parent, and I took them as my children. I havent ended back at Cowells yet., Rincon Point State Beach, Santa Barbara/Ventura counties, Rincon is a smooth right point break that goes on forever, all within view of Highway 1 above, making it one of the most famous surf spots in California. When I work with someone I am interested in helping build the foundation of a good human being. And thats his mantra. I had a big part in the stunt surfing and all the shots that happened out there in the Mavericks lineup. Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing with Greg Long. It is a poignant tale with a far larger narrative arc than the film, beginning with Hessons birth in San Francisco in 1950 and continuing through the death of Moriarity in 2001. It was clear that Jay had become obsessed. Lake & Roque have adopted me as their parent, and Ive adopted them as my children. Is that true? Frosty Hesson. Ludwig Bemelmans We all learned from Jay. A Californian legend and focus point of the unforgettable, Jay became a well-established longboarder and a well-versed, Rick Frosty Hesson, the Mentor to Madness, and Australian representative surf sports athlete. Copyright 2012 by Geoffrey Dunn. Jay was an inspiration in the Californian waters as surfers tended to be cold, unfriendly, and serious, but this was not who Jay was. After gaining experience in the cold waters of Santa Cruz, he joined a group of wave explorers in the Mavericks challenge in the 1980s. As expected, Jays death came as a shock to his friends, family, and the entire surfing community. I actually play one of the characters that Frosty [Hesson], who was Jays mentor, was surfing Mavericks with at the very beginning kind of before it was discovered by the rest of the surfing public and it was still sort of this mysterious almost myth of a wave that was really distant and people had heard stories about. Frosty Hesson shares life lessons. I sensed very surely that, just like the young James Michael Moriarity, he would be ready for the ride of his life. Filming took place in October 2011. Husband and father Frosty is a well-known surf coach and is one of the oldest people to surf Maverick's, the big wave surf spot south of . In the 1990s, she was responsible for taking many women to the sport. E.T.A. The Jaybird was someone who pushed the limits, Hesson says softly. You have a surf, then go to a hut to barbeque, chill, hang, then go for a surf again, come back in and do it all over again., Surfing is adventurous. Read also : Surf Final. Frosty not only taught Jay how to ride large waves, but put him through an extensive training program where Jay would need to study waves, breaks, and currents, write multiple essays on each topic, do nothing more than paddle for hours on end, and practice visualization techniques. The experienced big wave rider lived a turbulent youth. If youre having a bad day, catch a wave. E.T.A. When Jay was only 13 he embarked on a life-changing, physical, and mental journey with his newfound mentor, and future dear friend, Frosty. The 69-year-old is best known for his mentorship of the late surfing great Jay Moriarity, who built his reputation surfing big waves at Mavericks in Half Moon Bay and died in a drowning accident at age 22 while freediving in the Maldives. This unlikely duo of a 13-year-old Moriarity and 45-year-old Frosty would spend the next two years training for Jays first ride at Mavericks. Each represents a very special part of California, Hesson says. At 26, "Frosty" (nicknamed for his whitish blond hair) revisited the surf at Hawaii's Waimea Bay and, eventually, returned to Northern California's Half Moon Bay, where the . While filming the first episode of The Inertias new documentary series, a special called Sine Qua Non: The Psychology of Big Wave Surfing with Greg Long, I took some time to discuss Gregs involvement in a much higher budget surf film: Chasing Mavericks. I expect the next several months to be unexplainable and then my life to return to being with family and friends.. ; It wasnt until I was assigned to write a magazine story about Chasing Mavericks earlier this year that I first encountered Hesson, via email. He has always found a way to give of himself, not only to those close to him, but to the world at large. 's hottest neighborhoods sell Beautification Day launches first I Love Tenderloin Week for neighborhood, Missed the northern lights in California? Either you are who you live to be, or you are not. He went free diving alone in Lohifushi for an O'Neill picture shoot, but he was never seen again. I used to see them hanging out at The Point. He broke the record in October 2020 when he surfed a wave measuring 26.21 m (86 ft) off the coast of Portugals Praia do Norte, Nazar. Although a few other women in Jaws and a group of men have been riding the waves, those who have seen it firsthand say Hamilton is one of the best surfers to have ridden that wave, ever. The Point is a surfers paradise, and a distinctive surf culture emanates from just about every nook and cranny. Tall and barrel-chested with Hollywood good looks and blonde-turned-platinum hair (hence the nickname, Frosty), Hesson is an iconic figure in Pleasure Point, where he has lived close to the waters edge for more than a decade, and where he has surfed for nearly half a century. Hopefully, it will inspire everyone who sees it to follow their heart., At the core of the film is the relationship between Frosty and Jay, the deep friendship and sense of trust they forged through their years together. Trouble signing in? Jay Moriarity was born in Georgia, but moved when he was very young to Santa Cruz, California and dedicated his life to the ocean and big wave surfing. Richard "Frosty" Hesson has been surfing the northern California waters since 1963 and was among the elite group of surfers who first began riding the colossal waves at Mavericks in the 1980s. It is the magical season in Santa Cruz. To deal with a painful family life his parents separated early in his life he took to the ocean, eventually meeting his mentor Frosty Hesson, a Pleasure Point icon himself. Santa Cruz big-wave surf icon Richard "Frosty" Hesson reveals the triumphs and tragedies of his life in new memoir. I am a former Australian Olympic athlete and Australian representative surf sports athlete. What strikes me about Hesson is that through all of lifes hardshipsall of the grief and pain and being hit, as he puts ithe has kept his head above water, even in the deep part of the pool. ; From the most dangerous break, Hesson decided his next choice would be the most accessible wave on the list to round out the Central Coast surf experience. There was no ego involved, just his profound, introductory insights into the larger forces at work in the Cosmos. Chasing Mavericks, says Kim Moriarity, is not about capturing the biggest wave or experiencing the biggest wipeout. Robin Janiszeufski Hesson, wife of the iconic big wave rider Frosty Hesson, has passed away at 54. Hoffmann I dont look so cool, at least when Im not surfing.. Frosty Hesson: After meeting mentor and friend Rick Frosty Hesson, Jay Moriarity embarked on a physical, mental, and spiritual training journey that would prepare him for the surfing challenge. Chasing Mavericks is based on the inspirational true story of surfing phenom Jay Moriarty ( Jonny Weston ), who enlists the help of local legend Frosty Hesson ( Gerard Butler) to train him to surf . Moriarity died a day before his 23rd birthday on Friday, June 15, 2001, in the Indian Ocean off the coast of the island Lohifushi in the Maldives, drowning in a freediving accident. Newbies shouldnt paddle out to a spot too far beyond their skill and should understand the rules of the wave before they get in a lineup. A companion piece to the movie about surfing legend Rick Frosty Hessons life. A high Pacific tide is slowly receding from the cliffs, and the small bumps will soon give way to some waist-high swells along the surf breaks for which The Point is best knownfrom Privates to The Hook to Sewer Peak, and a favorite spot of mine when I was in high school, The Dirt Farm, where my buddies and I would hang and laugh and talk about the future while waiting for the next ride. explore the world through the prism of knowledge. Potential doesnt mean much if you dont put in the mental and physical work that is required to fulfill it. The extreme size of the waves is affected by the structure of an underwater mountain range studied by scientists. is the first legend of surfing of the century. Pleasure Point surfing icon Richard Frosty Hesson opens up about being the subject of the soon-to-be-released film, Chasing Mavericks, his new book and the importance of enjoying lifes simple pleasuresand enduring its toughest challenges. So how did you first get involved with the Chasing Mavericks movie and what is your role in the film? Im so grateful that he and his kids got into my life, Zeuf says. Hell also give free surfing tips to people lucky enough to meet him in the water. Its different when you have cameras pointed in your face, but the lines that we said arent too far from the conversation or dialog that we have with each other on a daily basis as were going surfing or suiting up or any of that so it was pretty natural and easy to fall in line with and figure it out hopefully without sounding like too much of a novice actor, but Ill let everyone else be the judge of that. His face might not be familiar, but his nickname is. He points to Kanoa Igarashi, who won the Vans U.S. Open of surfing in August, as an example of just that: Igarashi is a Huntington Beach local who competes for Japan in the Olympics.

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